1. CLEANING:
BoatLIFE offers two safe, effective cleaners that will not harm polysulfide, Teak Deck Sealant and other seam compounds, fiberglass, plastics, or vinyl. They are Teak Brite Powder Cleaner and Teak Brite Kreme Cleaner. Teak Brite Powder Cleaner is a heavy duty cleaner in powdered form. It is ideal for restoring badly stained teak decks without sanding. Decks can be cleaned beautifully by sprinkling gentle Teak Brite Powder Cleaner on thoroughly wetted deck surfaces and scrubbing with a soft brush or BoatLIFE's Life Scrub-All unt il the desired color is restored. (Scrub with the grain, not across it.) Then, a thorough rinsing is all that is needed to reveal a clean deck. Teak Brite Kreme Cleaner is a first class cleaner for all teak and hardwood surfaces. It is ideal for inside work, smaller areas around windows, and even overhead. It is not just a surface cleaning agent; it penetrates deeply into teak for a longer-lasting, thorough cleaning job. By forcing Teak Brite Kreme Cleaner into the grain of the teak you permit the cleaning agents to lift out stains, dirt, grease, and grime. Apply Teak Brite Kreme Cleaner to a wetted surface with a soft brush or a BoatLIFE Scrub-All (with the grain) and let it stand for 10 minutes. Then wipe up with a wet rag to complete the cleaning process. Teak, after it has just been cleaned, looks beautiful especially since it takes on a golden color. There are many varieties of teaks from different parts of the world. Some are light grained and almost reddish in color; while others are wide grained and golden. But once cleaned, all teak has had its natural oils removed. If left unattended, it will return very rapidly to its oxidized, grayish look, and more importantly, it will soil easily. Therefore, the teak should be sealed with teak oil.

2. BRIGHTENING:
In between the cleaning and sealing of teak, a middle step is useful. Some boat owners use the Brightener after the cleaner and before applying teak oil, because Teak Brite Brightener bleaches teak up to a lighter shade and will remove any residue left in the grain from the cleaning process. This step in the
sequence of teak care is optional, depending on the owner's preference. Mid season, if you care to spruce up your teak, apply Teak Brite Brightener. It will clean up dirt and grime and give your teak a sparkling appearance and will not attack seam or bedding compounds. Just finish with a light coat of Teak Brite Sealer.

3. OILING/SEALING:
This is the final step in complete teak care. BoatLIFE's Teak Brite Teak Oil Sealer is applied to the cleaned surfaces to protect the teak against dirt and stains. It sinks deep into the wood. Teak Brite Teak Oil Sealer also restores the natural oils so vital to the life of the timber, especially after extensive exposure to the elements and cleaning. If left unattended, the wood will return very rapidly to its oxidized gray look and will soil more easily. Teak oil must be applied carefully. When properly applied, it is not noticeable - except to the extent that it has enhanced the color of the teak. Use too much and you will notice a varnished effect from too much build up. Once the wood is saturated, continued application just builds up on the previous coat. Finally, it is no longer a sealer, but rather a "painted" surface. How often have you seen a beautiful teak deck that is a spotted golden? The spottiness is caused by the application of too much teak oil, too often and with too heavy a coating. Then, uneven weathering occurs with the sun and spray wearing down the oil in different areas at different times. BoatLIFE offers two teak oils to serve the preference of most boat owners. Teak Brite Teak Oil Sealer- Natural Color (clear) is available for those who prefer a lighter tone of teak. Teak Brite Teak Oil Sealer-Golden Color provides teak with a mellowed golden look. Now that you've cleaned your deck, allow sufficient time for the teak to dry thoroughly. Ideally, on a dry sunny day 24 hours drying time will give the best results. Teak Brite Teak Oil Sealer should be applied with a soft cloth, toweling or sponge brush and spread over the entire surface. The excess should be wiped off to eliminate puddling. After the oil has been absorbed into the wood, a second application should be made. But avoid using too much. During the season, it may be lost by the drying effects of a hot summer. Regardless of the number of times it is applied, Teak Brite Teak Oil Sealer will not harm polysulfides, Teak Deck Sealant or other seam compounds, plastic, vinyl, fiberglass or fittings. However, any overflow or spattering of the oil to adjacent materials should be removed at once as it will cause staining if allowed to set. If your boat has teak trim only and just a small amount of cleaner and oil is required, the BoatLIFE Teak Brite Teak Maintenance Kit will provide enough of each to maintain the teak for one season.



Caulking teak deck seams

You have all seen gorgeous teak decks with perfect black seams. Those seams all have one thing in common. They were caulked with a highquality marine grade sealant. The most widely accepted brands of deck sealants are BoatLIFE Life-Calk®, and Teak Deck Sealant. Life-Calk® comes in two types. The popular one-part which is available in the familiar yellow tubes and cartridges and the professional’s choice for teak deck work: Life-Calk® Two-Part Type P (pourable). The two-part is a fast* curing (24-48 hours), tough and resilient seam compound that will deliver years of leak free and aesthetic service. Teak Deck Sealant is available in cartridges.

It is a do-it-yourself job that can be accomplished with beautiful results. Proper preparation is critical to obtain professional results. Your seams must be perfectly cleaned and prepared prior to mixing and/or filling the material. To prepare the seam properly, first remove all the old caulking. For this we offer an electric Hot Knife which slices and removes caulking from seams (stock #1275). Another tool is a bent screwdriver that has been filed down to a point, much like a can opener. It should be bent to a 90° angle. After the material has been thoroughly removed it is wise to rout out the seam to provide a clean fresh edge. This step may or may not be necessary depending on how well the old caulking came out. (If you discover you have a "V" type of seam we recommend you square them off with a router. For new construction sometimes routing is needed to provide the seam. At times teak strips are laid over plywood, fiberglass, or steel at regular intervals which automatically provide the seam because 1/8" or 1/4" gap is calculated between the strips.)

Minimum joint size excluding the bondbreaker (we'll explain later) is 1/8" wide by 1/4" deep. Bondbreaker or caulking cotton must be used to line the bottom of the seam. Reason: adhesion should not be achieved on three sides. The bottom should be able to "ride" along the base of the seam with the deck as it flexes and works. The caulking should ride much like a rubber band would. Allow for Bondbreaker in calculating your seam size. If however, you are laying or recaulking a cosmetic deck (a deck laid over existing fiberglass deck), use a thin piece of paper as a bond breaker.

After cleaning and routing, the seams must be washed out with a good oil free solvent. Life-Calk® Solvent and Cleaner is excellent for this purpose. This process will dry up any surface oil from the end grain of the exposed teak.

When using one-part Life-Calk® you must prime the seams first with Life-Calk® Primer. This will seal the end grain from any escaping oil that will impede adhesion. It is important that you use ONLY Life-Calk® Primer for this application. Do not use a paint product such as red lead. These products are laden with oils that will produce the opposite results you are expecting and the Life-Calk® will not stick to the teak. However, if you are using the Life-
Calk® Two-Part Type P or Teak Deck Sealant, primer is not needed as the primer is built into the product.

The next step is to put in the bondbreaker. BoatLIFE Bondbreaker (stock #1211) is sold in 50-yard packs and is available at most marine stores. It is generally forced into place with a chisel, screwdriver or an old fashioned caulking iron. Next is choosing whether to mask the seams with masking tape.
It is a tedious task but will eliminate the need to sand your deck after the caulking cures. If you mask it, it is important to get the tape right to the very
edge of the seam but not go down into it. If you are not careful the tape will be caulked over and when removed, the tape will rip out the sealant covering it. Just run the tape over all the deck surfaces getting it good and flat. Now you are ready to apply the caulking. If using the Life-Calk® Two-Part, you will be mixing two components together for at least two minutes. Afterwards the
mixture will be poured into empty cartridges (stock#1120). We recommend
using the quart can kit (stock #1046). You will get about 2 1/2 cartridges, The mixing is a critical step. We recommend you turn the can upside down and cut out the bottom of the can with a can opener. This will assure that the catalyst will not collect under the lip of the can when mixing. Make sure you get a good top to bottom mix. We recommend the material be mixed by hand. Do not use a high-speed drill as it will whip air into the caulking and create bubbles. After the product is thoroughly mixed, squeeze the can to form a spout. Fill the cartridges 2/3 full and insert the plastic plunger provided with the empty cartridge. You are now ready to apply the material. It is a good idea to keep the other two cartridges out of the sun and in a cool place. This will slow down the already active curing process. Do not waste any time because the material is starting to cure as soon as the two components are mixed. Cut the tip of the nozzle, puncture the inner seal, or cut tip of cartridge, place the nozzle at the bottom of the seam and push the gun away from you along the base of the seam slowly while squeezing the trigger. Do not pull or draw the gun towards you. By pushing the gun away from you, you are forcing the material into the seam. If you pull the gun toward you, you will trap air and produce air bubbles in the seam. Next take a spatula or putty knife and smooth out the seam against the tape. Remove the tape immediately. The result is a perfectly caulked seam.

If sanding is needed, allow the material to cure first. Life-Calk® Two-Part should be ready for sanding in 2-3 days; Teak Deck Sealant will be ready for sanding in 24* hours. Life-Calk® One-Part curing will depend on the temperature and humidity and may be as long as 7 days or more. When sanding, sand with the grain and do not use an oscillating type of sander as it will tear the material loose. Do not walk on the freshly completed seams until
they are fully cured.

Now treat your seams right. Don't clean the deck with two part liquids and don't coat your teak with fancy teak treatments that can attack the caulking. Use Teak Brite Powder Cleaner and Teak Brite Teak Oil. They are the ones you can rely on for teak care. You'll love your teak...your gorgeous teak deck.



How to use wet wood epoxy

1. Start by drilling a 1/8” hole through the center of the seam
sealant to the depth of the wood deck about 2 feet forward of the wet
spot nearest the bow, because the elevation is highest at this point.
Drill a second hole through the seal sealant and wood deck at about
2 feet to the rear of the wet spot. Prepare two plugs from a 3/16”
dowel slightly tapered at the end. These plugs can also be formed
out of a pencil, piece of plastic or other material.
Use the syringe and remove the end cover of the nozzle. Cut
1/8” off the end cover to allow a passage for the material to flow
through, then take this cover and force it into the first 1/8” hole that
was drilled into the sealant. This will act as a receptacle to hold the
syringe in the rubber seam. Be careful not to lose or misplace this
end cover. It must be used each time the syringe is filled.

2. Mix BoatLIFE Wet Wood Epoxy using 40cc of part “A” and 22cc
of part “B”. In a separate cup mix with a tongue depressor or a
popsicle stick for one full minute. (Note: 2 parts “A” to 1 part “B”).
Insert the syringe into the end cover (which was forced into
the rubber seam) and remove the plunger.
Pour the mixed Wet Wood Epoxy into the syringe. Insert the
plunger and pump some of the contents through the rubber sealant
and under the wood deck. Water should start coming out of the
second hole. Continue to pump the contents of the syringe under the
wood deck until signs of epoxy come out the second hole. At this
point, release pressure on the syringe, remove both the end cover
and the syringe, then plug up the rear hole. Any material left in the
syringe should be used up in another area in a similar way to use
up the mixed material. Clean and wash the syringe with soap and
water, vinegar and/or acetone so it can be reused.

3.Wait 15 to 20 minutes, then remove the plug to see if the epoxy is
set hard enough to leave the plug out. Leave until fully cured, then
fill the holes with BoatLIFE Life-Calk®. If caulking in seam is a
silicone based material, use Teak Deck Sealant. After sealant is
cured, sand lightly.
This process can be repeated until all signs of water under the
decks disappear.



How to use "GIT"-ROT

HOW TO LOCATE DRY ROT
Tap questionable areas with a hard instrument and listen for
hollow sounding dead spots. Probe suspect areas with an ice
pick or sharp knife. Check areas where fresh water is likely to
accumulate. Particularly check the following: Spar checks,
hatches, deck seams, transom, companion slides, checks in
planking, toe rails, exposed end grain, stem, ribs, and stringers.

AMOUNT REQUIRED
For complete saturation and ultimate strength, in average type
rot, it will require a volume of "GIT"-ROT approximately equal to
half the volume of the rotted wood.

TIME AND TEMPERATURE
The optimum temperature for applying "GIT"-ROT is between
50° and 70°F (10° and 21°C). Only mix small batches (no more
than 4 oz.) since the larger the quantity the greater the reaction
and the faster the cure. After adding 1 part “B” to 3 parts of “A”,
shake vigorously for at least one (1) full minute (TIP: use a
watch while shaking the bottle.) Once the two parts have been
thoroughly mixed, a thermal reaction will begin to occur.
Penetration is best immediately after mixing. When working in
temperatures over 70°F (21°C), chill "GIT"-ROT overnight. At
70°F, properly applied "GIT"-ROT solidifies into a tough resilient
mass overnight. Allow one week for ultimate strength. Cold
temperatures will slow the cure. When painting, check
compatibility with paints.

PROVIDE RESERVOIRS
The mechanics of the actual treatment will vary for each case
depending upon location and construction. Where rot is deep
into a large member it is advisable to drill a staggered series of
overlapping holes approximately 1/4" in diameter, 2" apart,
slanting downwards. This will expose the necessary end grain
and provide reservoirs for the penetration as shown here. In areas where sections of rot contain extensive
holes where wood fibers are actuallymissing, it is recommended to mix sawdust with "GIT"-ROT and
use it as a fill material. In areas such as transoms, stringers, and
balsa core decking, drilling thru the fiberglass surface may be
necessary. For transom repairs, you may drill vertically down
through the transom, and then pour in "GIT"-ROT. For decking, drill
thru the surface to treat the wood underneath. Holes left by
drilling may be filled with a mixture of dry saw dust and "GIT"-ROT
or a marine repair epoxy compound.

PENETRATION
Capillary action is the principal on which "GIT"-ROT works.
Therefore, the most expedient way to apply the "GIT"-ROT is into
the end grain of the wood wherever possible. To avoid trapping
air in the middle of the rot always start at one end or on one
surface and work progressively along. A considerable amount of
patience is required during the actual penetration until complete
saturation is achieved. This is determined when the reservoir
holes fill and remain filled and the surface remains shiny.

DAMPNESS
"GIT"-ROT will eventually cure in damp wood. However, "GIT"-ROT will not displace water. So wet wood cannot be fully saturated. Any reduction in the amount of "GIT"-ROT simply reduces ultimate strength. Dry the affected area as much as possible. Soaking with acetone will assist drying; however, be cautious of fire hazard. CAUTION: Reaction between part A and B will produce heat. Do not use in high temperatures. Avoid all external additional heat sources.



Life-Calk® and Release Adhesive & Sealant Remover

To speed cure time, spray a little water onto one-part LIFE-CALK®. • To clean up tools, equipment and uncured LIFE-CALK® use LIFE-CALK® SOLVENT AND CLEANER or RELEASE. • Push the caulking gun, do not pull it. • In cold areas, warm tubes and cartridges before use. • Fill in small cracks with LIQUID LIFE-CALK®. • Use LIFE-CALK® PRIMER if there is any question about whether or not wood is oily (except with LIFE-CALK® 2-part type P). Remove cured sealants with RELEASE by spraying edge of sealant. Work bonded area between surface and sealant with a scraping tool and RELEASE until sealant is weakened.



Fiberglass Powder Cleaner and Bilge Cleaner

FIBERGLASS POWDER CLEANER & STAIN REMOVER is great for cleaning shore
power cords, inflatables, stainless steel and copper. To clean up greasy pots after being used for frying fish, pour a few ounces of BILGE CLEANER with water in the frying pan after pouring out the cooking oil. Swish the mixture together in the pot and let BILGE CLEANER do the hard part - get rid of most of the cooking oil. It will make cleaning with your regular dishwashing detergent much easier. Also, use BILGE CLEANER in the washing machine for really greasy clothes or on your driveway to clean up excess oil.



Teak Brite® Advanced Formula Teak Oil

For a fantastic finish, allow teak to dry 24 hours minimum prior to applying oil. Clean off overcoating on fiberglass before TEAK OIL SEALER dries, to facilitate removal. Use FIBERGLASS POWDER CLEANER to remove Teak Oil from fiberglass.